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How to Shop for Fabrics: Tips for Fabric Shopping

August 30, 2018

How to Buy Fabric: Types of Fabrics

When I first started sewing, I remember feeling completely overwhelmed! Fabric stores tend to have tons of fabric everywhere – mainly unorganized. In fact, at the beginning I used to look around feel bogged down and just leave empty handed. You all have asked a lot of questions about the different types of fabrics I have been using for my makes and when you should use it, I thought I may as well try and break it down for you here.

When you really get down to it, there is terminology for every kind of fabric available. I will keep it simple here and break it down to the fabrics that you will come across the most as well as how they can be used.

Categories of Fabric

Woven – This means the threads are interlocked in each other. This fabric retains its shape and also does not have a lot stretch. This makes it easier to sew with because the fabric does not move under the machine as you sew. They are ideal for beginner sewers.

Knit – The threads here weave in and out which makes the knit fabrics stretchy and flexible. The benefit is that it stretches and has movement. Of course, this fabric also moves around when you sew which makes it trickier to sew with.

So how do you choose which type of fabric?  It comes down to whether you want your garment or product to have stretch or not. I often use cottons that have no stretch for bags and I use knits for things that I want to have some stretch like headbands.

Materials

Fabrics can be classified as 1) Natural 2) Synthetic 3) Semi-Synthetic

Natural Fabrics:

Natural fabrics comes from animals and plants for the most part. Cotton, wool, leather are great examples of natural fibres which are sourced from the cotton plant, sheep and cows respectively. Other natural fibres include silk and cashmere. These tend to be the most expensive fabrics (aside from cotton).

Synthetic Fabrics: 

Synthetic fabrics are chemically produced. The fabric is made through a process called polymerization (this reminds me of my chemistry classes). The synthetic fibres can have many different properties that you cannot have with natural fibres (e.g., elastic and waterproof materials). Nylon, spandex and polyester (such as fleece) are examples of synthetic fabrics.

Semi-Synthetic:

Semi-synthetic fabrics is made from natural materials and modified partially by chemical processes. They are then woven or knit into fabric. Rayon, bamboo, lyocell are examples of these fabrics.

So how do you choose between these materials? Well it really depends on what you plan on making, preference on how the fabrics feel and where you stand ethically on how they are processed and manufactured. The benefit of making your own clothes is that you can choose the type of fabric that best fits into your lifestyle and preferences. The more I sew, the more I truly appreciate that it allows me to make my own choices for fabric.

The Types of Fabric and When to Use Them

Light weight fabrics for warmer weather

Cottons: 100% cotton fabric is great to begin sewing with and they can be found at most fabric stores. It is light weight and you can find an abundance of prints. They are perfect for bags, more stiff summer dress, quilting, aprons, cushion covers and many more projects.

Silk: Breathable and very delicate fabric. It is a bit more slippery to work with but has a beautiful luxurious feeling to it. This also makes it harder to sew with. Great for clothing like dresses and shirts.

Rayon: This is an ultra soft, smooth fabric with tons of movement. They also come in beautiful fun prints. They tend to be a bit more expensive I find, especially if you go towards designer prints. This fabric is great for skirts, loose fitting tops and other garments. It drapes beautifully! 

Jersey knits: These are so soft and stretchy. They work beautifully for tshirts, skirts and other apparel that need some stretch to it.

Linen: This is more medium weight fabric which makes it great for summer. I have been loving linen fabrics this summer, but it wrinkles so easily. Again, perfect for dresses, shirts and pants but does not have the same crisp fitted look other woven fabrics will give you.

Heavyweight fabrics for cooler weather

Wool: Heavier fabrics which are perfect for winter weather. Great for coats and suits.

Denim: Heavy weight and does not have a lot of stretch to it. The jeans you buy these days often have some spandex woven in which gives it a bit more stretch.

Flannel: Warm and insulating which makes it great for blankets and pyjamas.

Fleece and Minky: These are plush fabrics which are soft and cozy! Perfect to use for blankets, stuffed animals, baby items and pyjamas. Only downside is they may pill after a few washes so it does not last too long in your closet.

Flannel: Warm and insulating which makes it great for blankets and pyjamas. It’s not as thick as fleece and tends to shrink and pill quite a bit when washed.

Home Decor and Bags

Vinyl: Does not have any stretch, quite thick and has with very little movement. Great for faux leather bags. They come in a ton of different colours and thicknesses. I have used this to make my Fira Fold Over Clutch, eye glass pouch and the Queenstown Makeup Bag.

Canvas: Another woven fabric that can come in various stiffnesses. They can be used for outdoor type of products, throw pillows, tote bags, lining for bags. I’ve used this in my Queenstown Makeup Bag as the lining material.

Fabrics for Special Occasions

Tulle/Crinoline: Both of these fabrics are a type of netting and great for more formal wear. Tulle is soft and light weight and can be used for skirts (see circle skirt tutorial). Crinoline which is usually placed underneath garments to give structure.

Satin: Super glossy fabric that you will see on formal wear, like wedding dresses. I used satin as a lining in my tulle skirt to create a beautiful drape and shine to the skirt.

Chiffon:  Is a super sheer, light weight fabric and flows easily. It can come in both silk and polyester (more affordable).

Lace: Usually cotton or silk thread that has been woven together to make beautiful patterns.

Velvet: Heavy weight and very insulating. Used for dresses and other apparel.

So how do you choose between fabrics? It really depends on what you plan on making, preference on how the fabrics feel and where you stand ethically on how they are processed and manufactured. The benefit of making your own clothes is that you can choose the type of fabric that best fits into your lifestyle and preferences. The more I sew, the more I truly appreciate the ability to make  these choices.

How to Buy Fabric

Okay, so now that you know what fabric you need, how do you go into the fabric store and buy fabric with confidence? I think this may be the hardest part.

1.Well fabric comes in bolts which are often 44″ wide but can go up to 60″ wide. Take your fabric to the desk as the cutting counter will cut the amount you need. Of course, the amount of fabric you need will depend on the width of the bolt. I recommend going in knowing how much you need before getting it cut.

2. Fabric is usually measured in yards but most fabric stores measure and price in both yards and meters. Remember 1 yard = 0.91m (so 1 metre is bigger than 1 yard). Patterns often list the amount of fabric needed in yards, so personally I measure in yards. Fabric stores, often only cut in 1/4 or 1/2 yard increments so make sure you know exactly how much fabric you need.

3. Keep in mind the amount that some fabrics like natural fabrics (e.g. flannel), shrink. So, you may have to buy a bit more fabric to account for this shrinkage.

4. Prints on fabrics are beautiful and great for apparel and home decor. Keep in mind that when you are sewing the direction of the print has to be the same. This may also require that you buy more fabric so you can fit all the pieces together in the same direction. You do not want sew a dress with the print falling in random directions.

5. Keep in mind the amount that some fabrics like natural fabrics (e.g. flannel), shrink. So, you may have to buy a bit more fabric to account for this shrinkage.

SAVING MONEY

1. Let’s talk coupons! Yes, many of the large scale fabric stores will have coupons available online so keep an eye out! These coupons can save you a lot of money over time. Also, sign up for the small local store newsletters because they send discount codes for fabric.

2. I absolutely love designer fabrics because of the types of prints that are available. BUT, they are a lot more expensive than generic fabrics. So, until I’m confident in the project I plan on using it for, I tend to keep it in my stash. Start with more affordable fabrics!

3. Choose fabric that will last. Personally, if I am spending the time to sew something I want it to last. Fabrics that are “cheaper” can be great to start out with, but they contribute to fast fashion and often get thrown out pretty quickly. So, make a decision on the type of fabric that suits your needs and preferences.

5 Tips for Fabric Shopping

  1. I first do my research, making sure I know exactly how much fabric I need.
  2. Ask for help! Make sure you ask someone where to find the fabric you need. I love wondering around the fabric store sometimes just to get ideas of different fabric choices and patterns but this can be overwhelming when you have a specific project in mind. So, ASK!
  3. Personally, I just feel the fabric out and ask myself, does it have the right drape, softness and thickness. I find that feeling the material is really important in the decision making process.
  4. Of course, check the price before hitting the counter.
  5. Thrifted fabric is also a great way to recycle and up-cycle clothes. Just buy a larger dress or shirt and modify it to your needs!
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Retro boxy tee hack gives me all the summer vibes! Retro boxy tee hack gives me all the summer vibes! This time I decided to use the #MNjarrah to make a t-shirt using leftover striped cotton jersey fabric that I had purchased from @blackbirdfabrics last year. I am finally making my way through my fabric stash! This was a make it work moment with limited fabric and a stripped print ah! If you have sewn with stripes you know...getting those lines to match up is something else. This tee is far from perfect but I LOVE it so much!

The base was a sleeveless Jarrah Sweater. I altered the pattern by making two sleeves (check the blog for details) and shortened the hem all while trying my best to keep the stripes matched up... I would say 85% of the time it worked! Check my stories for the bloopers :)

Do you have any favourite tshirt patterns?
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Pattern: Jarrah Sweater @megannielsenpatterns 

Fabric: Striped cotton jersey @blackbirdfabrics 

#mnjarrah #meganneilsenpatterns  #sewersofinstagram #sewcreative #memadeeveryday #sew #sewingblogger #handmadewardrobe #imakemyownclothes #diyfashion #sustainablefashion #isew #iheartsewing #handmadeootd #memade #ilovesewing #isewlated2021 #handmadeootd #sewcialists #ootd #momstyle #blackbirdfabrics #kukarudesigns #memadeeveryday #retrofashion
It has been some time since I introduced myself. L It has been some time since I introduced myself. Let me know if you have anything in common!

1. My name is Kusala prounounced Ku-sa-la (it means good karma)
2. I was born in Sri Lanka and moved to Canada when I was 2
3. I have lived in 4 Canadian cities including Montreal, Vancouver, and Ottawa
4. My first creative hobby was playing piano. I played until grade 9 royal conservatory at which point I did not want to be hassled to practice and promptly quit ha! 
5. When i was younger I took traditional Kandyan dancing lessons and even performed on Parliament Hill
6. I have killed many plants in my lifetime but still love to think I have a green thumb
7. I work in health research
8. I have naturally curly hair but hated the look growing up so I always straightened it. Sometimes  I would straighten it just to curl it again. I’m finally embracing the natural curls.
9. I live in loungewear and that is the majority of my wardrobe
10. I am a mama to two boys who are home with me while I’m on maternity leave. I’m thankful that I get this year with them and I know how lucky I am to be able to be at home for this length of time. They are my inspiration for my kids sewing patterns.
11. Sewing and diy is my creative outlet and has helped me through this pandemic.

I hope you got to know me a little better.  I’m excited you are all here and following along my chaotic journey.

#mnjarrah #jarrahsweater #imakemyownclothes #sewcialdistancing #isewlated2021 #sewistsofinstagram #ilovesewing #memade #memadeeveryday #ootd #diyfashion #sustainablefshion #isew #sewfashion #statementsleeves #heart #heartfashion #fashionsewing  #sewersofinstagram
#memadeeveryday #sew #sewcreative #fortheloveofsewing #memadevalentine2021 #diy #introduction #pigeonpinkredparty #pocwhosews
For Galentines day, we pair a sweatshirt with a fu For Galentines day, we pair a sweatshirt with a fun tulle skirt...

..and call it cozy high fashion ha!

I had been searching for weeks for a pattern to make with this beautiful dreamy pink leopard print terry fabric I purchased from @simplififabric and just could not settle on one. I finally decided to make the leap and use it to make the #mnjarrah– view  A.

Anyone else have anxiety trying out a new pattern?

Even after cutting into it, I questioned my choice but I am so glad I trusted the process. Since this fabric is not fleece-lined, it actually has the perfect amount of drape for a lightweight cozy sweatshirt for the Jarrah!

I had a lot of fun dressing up and wearing heels for #galentinesday ! I also wanted to participate in some online valentines day sewing community challenges this year which gave me the extra motivation to finish this make on time!

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Skirt : Handmade by me - self drafted. Tutorial on the blog.

Pattern: Jarrah Sweatshirt @megannielsenpatterns 

Fabric: dusty pink organic French Terry Fabric @simplififabric 

#mnjarrah #memadevalentine2021 #pigeonpinkredparty #sewersofinstagram #sewcreative #memadeeveryday #sew ##sewingblogger #handmadewardrobe #imakemyownclothes #diyfashion #sustainablefashion #isew #iheartsewing #ootd #memade #ilovesewing #isewlated2021 #valentinesday #galentinesday #handmadeootd #sewcialists #ootd #momstyle #simplififabric #kukarudesigns #MNjarrah
Let's talk about throw pillows and the oh so popul Let's talk about throw pillows and the oh so popular pom pom pillow...

I was watching a video on @alexandragater channel recently and came across these super cute pom pom pillows. Since then I have seen them everywhere online. It is the perfect combination of the boho chic style that is all over Pinterest! 

These pillows retail at SUCH a high price point. I found one at @hm but they have been sold out for months! So I decided to DIY a pom pom pillow for the nursery to add that fun pop of colour to the room! 

The tutorial will guide you through sewing two different styles of pillows a simple zipper cushion cover AND a pom pom pillow BBC!

For the pom pom cushion I used a beautiful luxe velvet cotton that is so soft! The zipper cushion was made from a heavy weight linen in the colour canyon. As for the yarn, I used what I had in my stash but any thick yarn will work!

I love how this adds a fun pop of colour to the room!
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Throw pillows: handmade by me
Fabric: velvet cotton and linen @spoolandspindle
Let’s talk about loungewear... It seems like 20 Let’s talk about loungewear...

It seems like 2021 is starting off the same as 2020 in terms of fashion trends. Loungewear is still having its moment this year with loungwear sets and rompers trending. Seeing that I will be at home for the forseeable future, I needed a few more cozy pants and I knew I had to sew up another pair of Hudson Pants . 

For this make, I used a beautiful brushed french terry from European Import that I purchased from @simplififabric last year. 

This fabric is honestly the most cozy material I have ever worn! It has a stunning muted touch on the outside and warm, ultra fuzy inner lining.

These pants pair well with a t-shirt and zip up hoodie :) I chase two kids around all day, and cozy pieces just make it easier to play with them.

Also I used my new @babylocksewing serger for these pants! I have to say the serger does a beautiful job in finishing off the knit seams and I KNOW it will withstand lots of stretch. However, the sewing machine is super simple to use since I know it so well. It still made a beautiful pair of pants which ultimately is what you want at the end.

________________________________

Pants: Handmade by me
Fabric: European import brushed French terry in khaki @simplififabric
Pattern: Hudson pants by @truebias 

#hudsonpants #truebias #sewersofinstagram #sewcreative #memadeeveryday #sew ##sewingblogger #handmadewardrobe #imakemyownclothes #diyfashion #sustainablefashion #isew #iheartsewing #ootd #memade #ilovesewing #isewlated2021 #isewedpants #loungewear #handmadeootd #sewcialists
Let's talk about window treatments... I definitel Let's talk about window treatments...

I definitely had some mild anxiety when I fully understood how expensive home ownership can be! From adding storage units everywhere in the house, furnishing additional spaces and ….

…the cost of window treatments.

I wanted to add some hygge vibes into the nursery. It was a bit lack luster on the comfort side of things. These DIY custom curtains were less than $130 to make and install. I was able to get the look, length and quality that I envisioned for the space. 

You guys! This was the first time I hung up this #ikea racka curtain rod all by myself. Yes it may be only a curtain rod but I am so dang proud of myself.  I now have this new found confidence for using power tools ha!

The details on how I got this look are up on the blog! 

________________________________

Fabric: Cotton/linen blend from @lensmillstore 
Curtain rod: Racka @ikeacanada 
Curtain hooks: @ikeacanada 

#lensmill #localfabricstore #kwawesome #kwcraft #sewersofinstagram #crafting #canadiansewer #customcurtains #customdrapes #curtains #roommakeover #nursery #nurserydecor #sewcreative #sewist #sewingblogger #craftsastherapy #sewialdistancing #isewlated2021 #ilovesewing #customwindowtreatments #interiordesign #handsewn #custommade #ikeahack #ikeadecor #ikeabedroom
I’ve had a weekend full of failures... If you w I’ve had a weekend full of failures...

If you were following along this weekend I thought I could finish my Hudson Pants. Turns out I could not get my serger to cut through three layers of fabric and it kept getting jammed and I ended up with broken thread as well as broken needles. After adjusting the machine, I found it a bit better. The project did come to a halt as I am now waiting on some needles ha! Any helpful tips for the serger/over locker?

Then onto sewing a curtain. I used the wrong pleating tape and the Ikea hooks I bought were too small! So, last night I had to order more supplies. It’s surprising how a couple items add up. Anyone else feel this way?

Oh and today when I tried to install one of the curtain rods that I bought nearly a year ago, it ended up being too short! 

Sewing is never perfect and it can be pretty messy sometimes. This weekend just ended up being more messy. I guess that’s part of the ride. 

#sew #sewingproject #sewersofinstagram #sewceative 
#memadeeveryday #sew #sewcreative #fortheloveofsewing #sewist #sewingblogger #sewing #handmadewardrobe #imadethis #ilovesewing #homesewn  #createmakeshare #etsy #etsyseller #makerstrong #craftsastherapy #sewingmakesmehappy#creativelifehappylife #sewallthethings #diyfashion #serger #overlocker #sergertips
I have been quiet this week.. I took a break from I have been quiet this week..

I took a break from sewing and creating this week. It has been a heavy week in more ways than one. Personally there has been some major life decisions in the background that are exciting but also emotionally heavy.

And now a fresh new year and we are back into a state of emergency and stay at home order. Of course this has not changed much for me since I’ve been following the same guidelines for nearly a year now. Yet, there are still so many feelings around the loss of normalcy, loss of connection and loss of routine.

I know many of you are in a similar position or having similar feelings. I have found that taking a moment to process all of those feelings and sit with them has been has been a such a game changer both physically and emotionally. Know that this moment in time is not going to last forever. 

I will be starting some new projects this week to focus my energy. I find sewing and crafting a way to channel those feelings. 

How are you all doing?

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